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On
the summit of its mountain, the royal town of the Carolingians looms
up like a Mont-Saint-Michel, with its eighty classified buildings
dominating the plains of Picardy. |
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On
its bluff, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, towering one hundred
metres, seems to float between heaven and earth.
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Visitors wandering
along the cobblestone streets and the seven kilometres of ramparts,
the cathedral, abbeys, religious shelters, bourgeois houses, and private
residences will discover the art and history of France. |
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The
relatively unknown treasures of Laon are witness to the glories of an era:
the cathedral is one of the oldest Gothic style cathedral in France. |
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the other end of the town, the abbey of Saint-Martin, of the order of Prémontré,
challenges the 'star' status of the cathedral. Less grandiose, the church
has great charm with its fourteenth-century façade, cloister (of
which the stairway is a real technical masterpiece), seventeenth-century
abbots' residence of brick and stone, and a charming ornamental pavilion. |
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As
if by chance, the narrow alleys, the ramparts and the stones themselves
tell their history: the Rue du Cloître with the cannons' residences
to the right, the commoners' to the left; the Rue Georges-Ermant, with its
charming Templars chapel which houses a most unusual tomb, the famous
mummified body of Guillaume de Harcigny, the doctor of Charles VI and,
next door, the local museum, of which the plain nineteenth-century
façade hides a most important collection of Greek antiquities; the
Rue Vinchon with its religious refuges; the south rampart with the Porte
d'Ardon, a little drinking trough for animals at its feet; in the distance
the Abbey of Saint-Vincent which bears witness to a famous wine-growing
past; and the Rue du Change, with its Hôtel du Dauphin and its curious
covered balcony made of wood. |
Victor
Hugo wrote enthusiastically: "Everything is beautiful at Laon: the
churches, the houses, the surroundings." He was quite right, and a
good deal of time is needed to really experience Laon and its classified
buildings situated in one of the largest protected heritage sites in
France.
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